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u144But the effects of the luminaries depend upon their distances from the earth; for when they are less distant their effects are greater, and when more distant their effects are less, and that in the triplicate proportion of their apparent diameters. Therefore it is that the sun in the winter time, being then in its perigee, has a greater effect, and makes the tides in the syzygies something greater, and those in the quadratures something less, cæteris paribus, than in the summer season; and every month the moon, while in the perigee, raiseth greater tides than at the distance of 15 days[Pg 537] before or after, when it is in its apogee. Whence it comes to pass that two highest tides do not follow one the other in two immediately succeeding syzygies.

The effect of either luminary doth likewise depend upon its declination or distance from the equator; for if the luminary was placed at the pole, it would constantly attract all the parts of the waters, without any intension or remission of its action, and could cause no reciprocation of motion; and, therefore, as the luminaries decline from the equator towards either pole, they will by degrees lose their force, and on this account will excite lesser tides in the solstitial than in the equinoctial syzygies. But in the solstitial quadratures they will raise greater tides than in the quadratures about the equinoxes; because the effect of the moon, then situated in the equator, most exceeds the effect of the sun; therefore the greatest tides fall out in those syzygies, and the least in those quadratures, which happen about the time of both equinoxes; and the greatest tide in the syzygies is always succeeded by the least tide in the quadratures, as we find by experience. But because the sun is less distant from the earth in winter than in summer, it comes to pass that the greatest and least tides more frequently appear before than after the vernal equinox, and more frequently after than before the autumnal.

Moreover, the effects of the luminaries depend upon the latitudes of places. Let ApEP represent the earth on all sides covered with deep waters; C its centre; P, p, its poles; AE the equator; F any place without the equator; Ff the parallel of the place; Dd the correspondent parallel on the other side of the equator; L the place which the moon possessed three hours before; H the place of the earth directly under it; h the opposite place; K, k, the places at 90 degrees distance; CH, Ch, the greatest heights of the sea from the centre of the earth; and CK, Ck, the least heights; and if with the axes Hh, Kk, an ellipsis is described, and by the revolution of that ellipsis about its longer axis Hh a spheroid HPKhpk is formed, this spheroid will nearly represent the figure of the sea; and CF, Cf, CD, Cd, will represent the sea in the places F, f, D, d. But farther; if in the said revolution of the ellipsis any point N describes the circle NM, cutting the parallels Ff, Dd, in any places R, T, and the equator AE in S, CN will represent the height of the sea in all those places R, S, T, situated in this circle. Wherefore in the diurnal revolution of any place F the greatest flood will be in F, at the third hour after the appulse of the moon to the meridian above the horizon; and afterwards the greatest ebb in Q, at the third hour after the setting of the moon; and then the greatest flood in f,[Pg 538] at the third hour after the appulse of the moon to the meridian under the horizon, and, lastly, the greatest ebb in Q, at the third hour after the rising of the moon; and the latter flood in f will be less than the preceding flood in F. For the whole sea is divided into two huge and hemispherical floods, one in the hemisphere KHkC on the north side, the other in the opposite hemisphere KHkC, which we may therefore call the northern and the southern floods: these floods being always opposite the one to the other, come by turns to the meridians of all places after the interval of twelve lunar hours; and, seeing the northern countries partake more of the northern flood, and the southern countries more of the southern flood, thence arise tides alternately greater and less in all places without the equator in which the luminaries rise and set. But the greater tide will happen when the moon declines towards the vertex of the place, about the third hour after the appulse of the moon to the meridian above the horizon; and when the moon changes its declination, that which was the greater tide will be changed into a lesser; and the greatest difference of the floods will fall out about the times of the solstices, especially if the ascending node of the moon is about the first of Aries. So the morning tides in winter exceed those of the evening, and the evening tides exceed those of the morning in summer; at Plymouth by the height of one foot, but at Bristol by the height of 15 inches, according to the observations of Colepress and Sturmy.

But the motions which we have been describing suffer some alteration from that force of reciprocation which the waters [having once received] retain a little while by their vis insita; whence it comes to pass that the tides may continue for some time, though the actions of the luminaries should cease. This power of retaining the impressed motion lessens the difference of the alternate tides, and makes those tides which immediately succeed after the syzygies greater, and those which follow next after the quadratures less. And hence it is that the alternate tides at Plymouth and Bristol do not differ much more one from the other than by the height of a foot, or of 15 inches; and that the greatest tides of all at those ports are not the first but the third after the syzygies.

And, besides, all the motions are retarded in their passage through shallow channels, so that the greatest tides of all, in some straits and mouths of rivers, are the fourth, or even the fifth, after the syzygies.

It may also happen that the greatest tide may be the fourth or fifth after the syzygies, or fall out yet later, because the motions of the sea are retarded in passing through shallow places towards the shores; for so the tide arrives at the western coast of Ireland at the third lunar hour, and an hour or two after at the ports in the southern coast of the same island; as also at the islands Cassiterides, commonly Sorlings; then successively at Falmouth, Plymouth, Portland, the isle of Wight, Winchester, Dover,[Pg 539] the mouth of the Thames, and London Bridge, spending twelve hours in this passage. But farther; the propagation of the tides may be obstructed even by the channels of the ocean itself, when they are not of depth enough, for the flood happens at the third lunar hour in the Canary islands; and at all those western coasts that lie towards the Atlantic ocean, as of Ireland, France, Spain, and all Africa, to the Cape of Good Hope, except in some shallow places, where it is impeded, and falls out later; and in the straits of Gibraltar, where, by reason of a motion propagated from the Mediterranean sea, it flows sooner. But, passing from those coasts over the breadth of the ocean to the coasts of America, the flood arrives first at the most eastern shores of Brazil, about the fourth or fifth lunar hour; then at the mouth of the river of the Amazons at the sixth hour, but at the neighbouring islands at the fourth hour; afterwards at the islands of Bermudas at the seventh hour, and at port St. Augustin in Florida at seven and a half. And therefore the tide is propagated through the ocean with a slower motion than it should be according to the course of the moon; and this retardation is very necessary, that the sea at the same time may fall between Brazil and New France, and rise at the Canary islands, and on the coasts of Europe and Africa, and vice versa: for the sea cannot rise in one place but by falling in another. And it is probable that the Pacific sea is agitated by the same laws; for in the coasts of Chili and Peru the highest flood is said to happen at the third lunar hour. But with what velocity it is thence propagated to the eastern coasts of Japan, the Philippine and other islands adjacent to China, I have not yet learned.

Farther; it may happen (p. 418) that the tide may be propagated from the ocean through different channels towards the same port, and may pass quicker through some channels than through others, in which case the same tide, divided into two or more succeeding one another, may compound new motions of different kinds. Let us suppose one tide to be divided into two equal tides, the former whereof precedes the other by the space of six hours, and happens at the third or twenty-seventh hour from the appulse of the moon to the meridian of the port. If the moon at the time of this appulse to the meridian was in the equator, every six hours alternately there would arise equal floods, which, meeting with as many equal ebbs, would so balance one the other, that, for that day, the water would stagnate, and remain quiet. If the moon then declined from the equator, the tides in the ocean would be alternately greater and less, as was said; and from hence two greater and two lesser tides would be alternately propagated towards that port. But the two greater floods would make the greatest height of the waters to fall out in the middle time betwixt both, and the greater and lesser floods would make the waters to rise to a mean height in the middle time between them; and in the middle time between[Pg 540] the two lesser floods the waters would rise to their least height. Thus in the space of twenty-four hours the waters would come, not twice, but once only to their greatest, and once only to their least height; and their greatest height, if the moon declined towards the elevated pole, would happen at the sixth or thirtieth hour after the appulse of the moon to the meridian; and when the moon changed its declination, this flood would be changed into an ebb.

Page 144 of 154 Β· Mathematical Principles of Natural Philosophy, Isaac Newton , tr. Andrew Motte Β· Project Gutenberg